Please note… the Poorboy plans remain my intellectual property and are not
Considered “public Domain”.
2010 PB-1
PoorBoy Aviation Inc.
5920 62nd St. SW
Minot, ND 58701
Ph 701 720-2930
Web Sit http://www.poorboyaviation.com
Forum http://groups.yahoo.com/group/poorboy/
CHECK PAGE April 2011 PG-B
Check the list below to be sure you have all the pages you should have for the
Reference set.
Cover pages A,B.
General Information Pg 1 to 8.
Construction pg. 9 to 52.
Material List Pg 1 to 9.
Hardware Pg 1 to 5.
DIA-AF-1 DIA-CO-16 PIC-AF-1 PIC-CO-16 PIC-WG-31
DIA-AF-2*Pat DIA-CO-17 PIC-AF-2 PIC-CO-17 PIC-WG-32
* = Pattern DIA-TL-18 PIC-MG-3 PIC-CO-18 PIC-CV-33
DIA-AF-3 DIA-TL-19B PIC-MG-4 PIC-CO-19 PIC-RG-34
DIA-MG-4*Pat DIA-TL-20 PIC-BT-5 PIC-MISC-20
DIA-MG-5 DIA-AL-21B PIC-BT-6 PIC-TL-21
DIA-BT-6 DIA-WG-22 PIC-HC-7 PIC-TL-22
DIA-HC-7 DIA-WG-23 PIC-HC-8 PIC-TL-23
DIA-HC-8 DIA-WG-24*Pat PIC-HC-9 PIC-TL-24
DIA-HC-9 DIA-WG-25 PIC-HC-10 PIC-TL-25
DIA-HC-10 DIA-RG-26 PIC-HC-11 PIC-GUS-25B
DIA-NO-11 Rudder Horn PIC-HC-12 PIC-ENG-26
DIA-NO-12 Gussets - PIC-NO-13 PIC-ENG-27
DIA-SE-13B (see pic-gus-25B) PIC-NO-14 PIC-AL-28
DIA-CO-14 PIC-NO-15A PIC-AL-29
DIA-CO-15 PIC-SE-15B PIC-JIG-30
Note: You may or may-not wish to use the patterns, however the Patterns are not
corrected for true size when you print them from the CD-Rom disc. You will need
to correct the pattern print size to the correct scale. Correct your pattern to
the known dimension before using it. Generally the printer software will allow
sizing.
Keep a Builders Log, date entries of progress with occasional pictures. You will
need this log if you ever need to demonstrate that you built the plane to the FAA
(and yourself), also its a great thing to have if you sell your plane.
Web site– www.poorboyaviation.com E-mail hartungj@srt.com
April 2011 Pg-1
These plans are for the PB-1 only, please ignore other references.
Goals of the PoorBoy designs are straight forward construction, and low cost.
Handling qualities of the Poorboy are intermediate Ultralight Aircraft.
Entry level handling Ultralight planes will fly hands off easily when trimmed
properly and are very stable usually with long wings and generous dihedral.
Intermediate handling Ultralight planes (like the Poorboy) usually have shorter
wings with less dihedral and require more attention to the controls. Advanced
handling Ultralight planes require constant control input to keep the plane
responding to the pilots wishes and will respond quickly to the controls as
acrobatic maneuvers would require (short wings and center of gravity centered
about the mid point of the airplanes mass).
The PB-1 is designed around the rotax 503 DC/DI, standard model, a second PB-1
is flying well using a 35hp cuyuna, use 35 to 50 hp air cooled engines).
The PB-H is a heavier version of the PB-1 designed for heavy pilots still using
a 503 Dual carb.
PB-1
Wingspan 25’~27’ (depends on wing tip)
Wing Area 125 sq/ft. -- Wing Cord 5’
Length 20’, Width 25’, Height 6’ -- Never exceed speed 75 mph.
Build time 450 hrs. -- Engine Rotax 503 air cooled.
Construction Method:
Aluminum tube is the primary building material in the PoorBoy and the reason
for that choice is based on quick building times, ease of repair
techniques, and the ability to see problems during safety inspections as
compared to Wood or composites. The Poorboy use 4130 steel parts in
critical areas and the covering is heat shrink Dacron fabric.
Tools required are what most folks have in their homes, you will also need
additional tools such as cable swage tool, pipe bender, and pop rivet
gun. Steel parts can be supplied by us when requested, you can build the steel
parts yourself from the plans if you have the welder also a small hydraulic press.
Cost:
Materials list include 6061 T-6 aluminum, 4130 steel for some parts, fabric
covering w/supplies, and the engine. A few general hardware items like
wheels/tires are used. Aircraft grade hardware is required for all bolts,
turnbuckles, etc. Cost to build should run about $ 3000. for materials to
build the airframe. Covering cloth and cement cost about $300.00 to $500.00.
Latex paint option can save on painting costs (about $200).
April 2011 Pg-2
Materials are available from suppliers like Wicks (1 800 221-9425) and
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty (1 800 824-1930).
We use a Rotax 503 engine on the PB-1, others like Kawasaki, Hirth, Cuyuna (2SI)
can work well, power differences are obviously going to effect flight performance.
I have a PB-1 flying with a Cuyuna UL202 35hp that does fine so the 503 is not
the only engine possibility.
Building has some benefits, you can buy some parts and build as your budget allows
and you get the enjoyment and education of the project. Building also means you
know what you have internally and you have a new plane.
This is our not responsible for your butt statement. (liability release).
Safety is the big concern. Flying Ultralight aircraft can be a risky activity,
a person needs to be acutely aware of the dangers to life and limb. PoorBoy
Aviation takes no responsibility for your safety in this endeavor, these plans
are available with that understanding. These plans will show you how to build
Poorboy aircraft based on the flying prototype that PoorBoy Aviation flies.
If you do not have experience to evaluate building and flying an Ultralight
you should take the information and plans to someone with sufficient knowledge
that you trust to help you with an evaluation of this activity.
* If you are new to Ultralight aircraft:
Risk Management: The first year of driving a car or motorcycle is
statistically the most dangerous, this would also be true of Ultralights.
Riding a motorcycle might be considered twice as risky as driving a
car, flying an Ultralight is risky similar to riding a motorcycle.
There is a learning curve associated with each of these activities. Flying
Ultralights is not difficult “however” the knowledge associated with it is
essential.
* TRAINING What to expect: You should expect about 5 to 7 hrs of instruction
time in a general aviation trainer or ultralight trainer close to the point of
“solo”. What your intension would be is to learn the basic reactions and skills
of flying, this is the minimum hours of training a person needs and is not a license
requirement like the Sport Pilot License but is what is needed to be able to fly
an Ultralight with some margin of safety. You will need to know the rules of the
airways etc. "pilot training". People vary in training needs, the shortest and
quickest people to be trained are not necessarily the safest pilot.
* Special Note: As an Ultralight Pilot you have the additional duties of
engine and airframe mechanic, this is not like flying a certified aircraft where
someone else checks to make sure the aircraft is safe to fly. As an Ultralight
Pilot you are the ultimate authority and must decide if the design and condition
of the aircraft are adequate for safe flight. You can gain further maintenance
information by contacting ultralight flight instructors, airframe mechanics and
other ultra-lighters that you have confidence in, an excellent source is EAA
ultralight chapters, EAA national and ASC (Aero Sports Connection). Try your
local FBO also. If you are going the Sport Pilot route and N number the aircraft
these issues are covered in that training.
April 2011 Pg-3
“The MOPED of aviation”
An Ultralight aircraft: -- is defined as a single occupant, 254 lb. aircraft,
carrying 5 gal. of fuel, stall speed not to exceed 24 knots (28mph), not to
exceed cruise speed of 55 knots (63mph). A Ultralight can weight as much as 278
lbs. with a ballistic chute (24 lbs. weight allowance). Aircraft meeting these
parameters do not require a pilots license. The Spirit of Part 103 rule allows
for single occupant flight of an aircraft without a license with low speeds and
light weight = low kinetic energy. This formula lowers the danger to the pilot,
property, and the public; as an aircraft adds weight & speed the kinetic energy
goes up, greater fuel capacity increases fire danger and so forth. Fat Ultralights
have come about mostly from a desire to increase airframe strength, then followed
a desire for heavier engines (safer performance), greater fuel capacity (it isn’t
a good idea to run out of gas) and so forth. You don’t want to get too far from the
“spirit” of the law, the FAA has been somewhat tolerant of Fat Ultralights but as
the definition is stretched their tolerance may decrease. The alternative to flying
as an Ultralight is to get a Sport Pilots license and “N” number the plane.
Ultralights often require state registration, also knowledge by the pilot of aircraft
rules and regulations, and of course the knowledge and skill of pilot in command.
The exception should not be made to fly a two place Ultralight without registration,
proper training and (license), the FAA will not be tolerant of this, nor in good
judgment should you.
The PoorBoy has good handling and performance; it has a nice design look and the
fit and finish is up to you. The Poorboy is designed for those people who want to
do the building themselves and do it inexpensively.
Order Here April 2011 Pg-4
Web: www.poorboyaviation.com E-Mail: hartungj@srt.com
Price $50.00 For PB-1 Plans on CD.
Shipping is included in price.
Check or Money order to
Poorboy Aviation Inc.
5920 62nd St. SW
Minot, ND 58701
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/poorboy/
Note See flying demo "video" on web site.
Web: www.poorboyaviation.com E-Mail: hartungj@srt.com
PoorBoy Versions April 2011 Pg-5
Ultralight type planes have gone through continued development starting
somewhere in the 1970’s. A rediscovery of the basic fun and experimentation
produced a transitional progression of development that the law of the land
didn’t quite know how to keep up with, that led to a mess as the Federal
Aviation Administration (FAA) tried to regulate the airspace. People were
soaring down hillsides with hang gliders, small engines on the hang gliders
appeared and the FAA came up with the 155 lb foot launch rule. Next came the
hang glider with a seat and wheels, larger engines and a accompanied weight
increase of airframe and the part 103 254-lb rule came into effect to cover this
basic level of machine. The developmental progression didn’t stop or even slow
down but the FAA did, the FAA seemed unwilling to allow further development and
the part 254 lb rule held for about the next 20 years. Other countries (Canada,
England, France, Germany, etc.) progressed in the 1980’s and 90’s with Micro-
light categories in their laws allowing for the additional development of the
Ultralight movement, the US rules didn’t change until October of 2004 and
finally gave a boost to the life of aviation with the Sport Pilot Category.
The Sport Pilot License and associated Light Sport Aircraft (LSA) is the current
rule. The Ultralight rule was fortunately saved (thank God) and the FAA left
the 103 rule in place. This is my quick and probably narrow description of
what has taken place on the Ultralight scene in the last 30 years and is not
inclusive nor exactly accurate. I offer this bit of history to introduce
the different models of the PoorBoy.
Most single place fixed wing Ultralight aircraft in the past 20 years
(probably greater than 95%) were overweight but otherwise would meet the Part
103 rule. The obvious reason for this is airframe strength, most designers were
unwilling to cut the airframe formula that close to the safety margin of the 254
lb weight limit. There are 254 lb. Legal Ultralights that have had reasonable
safety history’s built in the past and still offered in the present but it is
difficult to keep them that way because of additions. Some designers break the
rule or give false information, try to find ways around it by not having niceties
like breaks or windshields etc., and others simply refuse to offer a claimed 254
lb. 103 legal model. It should be obvious that if you plan on building a 103 legal
“254 lb.” Ultralight that you cannot let its weight grow with additions or you miss
the point of the 103 legal effort in the first place.
I personally don’t like 254lb. Ultralights because I prefer the standard model
PB-1’s safer airframe. As I see part 103 a 254 lb. plane usually misses the
mark in weight or soon does after someone adds anything like windshield,
brakes, or instruments. Once you miss the weight goal then the exercise of
shooting for strict 254 is pointless and you may then have a more limited
strength airframe and the better choice is to build a PB-1. I support the
concept of the 103 limits in speed and flight envelope for an Ultralight. I
also support the rule's single place aircraft requirement for an Ultralight and
think that idea is paramount to an unlicensed sport vehicle of this kind.
April 2011 Pg-6
The PB-U is not a real plane, please ignore the PB-U references that you see
imbedded in the plans, (still too heavy).
The PB-1 is the standard model and will come out heavy by the 254 lb. rule,
the PB-1 can fly in the 103 envelope in every other part 103 requirement.
The PB-H (heavy load) are also imbedded in the plans and is about 20 lbs
heavier than the PB-1 because of heavier airframe members, this models options
are for pilots over 250 lb. pilot weight.
The PB-1 Poorboy: We have designed, built and flown the time off the PB-1
prototype. It costs a good bit of money and effort to bring a version of the
plane into existence, I explain this so that anyone interested in the Poorboy’s
will understand additional prototype models are limited in the real world of
time and money.
Performance: The range of performance is going to be similar to most of the
Ultralights you see on the market varying of course by the amount of power
applied. A few planes like Titan are meant to be clean and fast by design,
the Poorboy is not one of those. Poorboys have a low aspect wing and are
meant to perform in the Ultralight flight envelope, they will go faster but
fuel economy and engine life are matched to the best overall function without
excessive effort on streamlining. We keep the Poorboys in the Part 103
flight envelope by adding a split aileron that slows stall and limits upper
speed range.
Wing tip choice will effect stall speeds and so will aileron rigging. The
PB-1 prototype w/droop tips and a 200 lb. pilot stalls at 26 to 27mph. (28mph is
max stall speed for Ultralight).
Wing Tip Options.
There are four wing tip configurations you could use.
1. Cut tip. This is the wing just ending flat with no “tip”.
The Cut tip is a bit faster for speed due to less lift, it has a
higher stall speed also that raises the stall speed too high for
the 28mph limit in the part 103 rule.
2. Rounded tip. 16” to 18” rounded bow, adds 2.5 ft to wing span.
The rounded tip adds to lift by decreasing spill around the end of the
airfoil and increases the wing span, the rounded tip is a common type
of wing tip.
3. Droop tip. Nice looking, adds 1 ft to span.
The droop tip adds to the lift a good bit, decreases the stall as well
as increase lift, increases drag and may slow the upper end speed
some (looks cool and is my favorite).
4. Flat plate tip. Attached to “cut End” and is oversize to the
airfoil and adds to lift performance. The flat plate tip adds to lift
by damning the wing end and limiting air migration around the tip, it
adds lift similar to a droop tip because it is larger than airfoil
size, it is inexpensive and does not increase the wingspan. The flat
plate tip is easily removed and re-attach if you wanted to fly in the
cut tip configuration.
PoorBoy uses a USA 35B airfoil (but significantly modified in application),
attached baton style rib on 8” rib spacing (to limit scalloping on dope and
fabric wing), cable linkage on rudder and elevator, push/pull torque tubes
for aileron control.
The Prototype PB-1 uses a Rotax 503DC and the information about the PB-1 is
based on that configuration. Performance numbers on any plans built Ultralight
will change depending on how the ailerons are “rigged”, wing tip choices, and of
course the engine choice (35hp Min. to 52hp 503DC). 503DC Rotax is recommended,
however I am now flying a PB-1 with a 35hp Cuyuna UL202 and it flies very well.
Web: www.poorboyaviation.com E-Mail: hartungj@srt.com
General flying Description April 2011 PG-7
Statistics: We try to avoid giving you hard numbers for performance, hard
numbers are elusive because of the many variables such as temperature, humidity,
engine power rating and condition, propeller efficiency, how much enclosure is
on the plane etc. You will find the Poorboy flies well and is comparable to
other Ultralights of similar power. In general if you are looking at a couple
of different planes spec’s you can count on this not being much different. We
have a video available that may help you to determine the planes flying
character, (see *Video* on this web sit). The Poorboy was designed with a
24.5ft. wingspan (12 ft. std. spars), wing tip choices can add to wingspan a
bit as you choose.
The PB-1 prototype with a 200 lb. pilot, 503dc engine, and droop tips, stalls
at 26 to 27 mph., cruse 55 to 60 easily, full power level flight may exceeding
VNE., this also exceeds legal top speed of 63 mph for an Ultralight aircraft.
This 503DC power is desirable for takeoff performance but should not use full
power in normal level flight. The 35 hp Cuyuna PB-1 stays in the speed range
better and flies very well, 35 to 50 hp air cooled engines are recommended.
The ailerons on the prototype appear to be a flap and aileron as separate
controls because of the abrupt angle change at the strut position, the control
surfaces are one piece, they are not separate and are activated by one control
arm p/wing, the angle difference is not as abrupt in the PB-U. The five degree
angle change exists on all of the PoorBoy models and is built into the aileron
to produce washout on an otherwise flat rectangular wing. The aileron angle
change is an attempt to slow the wing in stall with good stall warning.
The wing will fully stall if you aggravate the approach to stall and spins are
not approved or recommended, nor are rolls (this is an “ultralight” aircraft).
The aircraft can be built without the split aileron 5 degree angle difference
but we have not researched that option and recommend that you use the 5 degree
split. The aileron angle split is intended to keep the aircraft in the
Ultralight flight envelope by lowering stall and limiting the upper speed
range of the wing.
Stability: Pitch--- The PoorBoy is pitch stable as measured by pulling the
stick back and releasing, the aircraft will cycle a couple of times and go to
trim setting in about 2 minutes (hands off testing), trim set at slightly nose
up (climb) at 75% power. Pitch trim is set by the horizontal stabilizer leading
edge ground adjustable position.
Yaw---- is stable in one cycle, push rudder and release, plane will return to
no input skid because of P-Factor forces unless there is trim correction applied
or build in.
Roll is less stable and is effected by P-Factor and the amount of dihedral,
the aircraft has been flown at 5 degrees and 2 degrees of dihedral. The plans
call for 4 degrees dihedral, a person may choose another setting but note that
as dihedral increases roll stability increases, as dihedral decreases the
aircraft is more roll sensitive and less stable but more responsive. The
aircraft is generally not roll stable unless there are trim tabs or trim spring
tension applied and the pilot needs to fly the airplane, this is true of
co-ordination of turns also (stick and rudder). The aircraft has good roll
authority and is not touchy.
Trim adjustments are required with power setting changes, elevator trim forces
will be effected as well as aileron and rudder to a lesser degree, this is true
of Ultralights and General Aviation aircraft.
April 2011 PG-8
General flying character will remain consistent as long as you observe proper
center of gravity (CG) of 29-percent of the wing cord (based on 60” cord, about
17.5” from LE). Slight changes from this will not put the aircraft at risk + or
– ½”, but you will notice changes on controls and trim settings. There are
limits to CG balancing points, too far forward and you wouldn’t have enough
control authority to keep the nose up, too far aft and the aircraft could become
uncontrollable and “twitchy” (stall recovery in particular). FAA has a Pilot’s
Weight and Balance Handbook (EA-AC91-23A) that is very good (you need this when
you do the center of gravity calculations and to confirm CG figures). The
aircraft is a 30 percent CG balance point design theory.
www.faa.gov/library/manuals/ aircraft/media/FAA-H-8083-1A.pdf
Take off: Apply power and bring the tail up about 1 ft. from the ground, let
speed build a bit and slowly bring the tail back to the ground angle of attack,
the plane will lift off. After liftoff level off and let your speed build a bit
and adjust your climb angle. Once airborne you can adjust the power setting,
you should not fly at full throttle unless you were in takeoff or hard climb.
Cruise speed 45 to 65 (63mph limit) is comfortable, under 35 the aircraft is
getting sloppy and your close to stall speeds.
Instrumentation: A Halls airspeed indicator and a piece of string (yaw
string), you can fly just fine with just this much as long as your engine is in
tune (carburetor main jet), and its fun. Optional instruments put the flying
instrument panel between your feet (altimeter, airspeed, rate of climb, slip
indicator ball), and the engine instruments at your left hand side panel
(cylinder head temp, exhaust gas temp, RPM, hour meter, ignition switch etc.),
you may want a compass somewhere. The degree of instrumentation is your
personal choice.
Landing: Your approach speed should be "at least" 10 to 15mph above stall, if
you trained in a General Aviation aircraft remember that ultralights have less
weight and will slow quickly without power or a steep descent angle.
Ultralights are more sensitive to wind gradient changes during descent on breezy
days (the wind will decrease as you loose altitude close to the ground and the
air will appear to fall out from under you upon flair), this is true if there
are ground obstructions to air flow such as trees or buildings. Engine out
condition should bring the pilot into approach to landing attitude immediately
by putting the nose down and maintaining at least 15 mph speed above stall
condition until flair for touch-down (standard procedure).
Note that a 35hp PB-1 is flying with some variation in performance but the overall
character is the same.
Parts / Kits April 2011 Pg-9
E-Mail: hartungj@srt.com Web: www.poorboyaviation.com
Poorboy Aviation, 5920 62nd St. SW, Minot ND 58701, ph 701-720-2930
All the information to build the parts are in the plans.
Also see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/poorboy/
· Droop Wing Tips "sources (Droop tips, Max Performance,
G.Sychrovsky 978-425-0229
Poorboy Construction April 2011 Pg-10
Tube cutting is best done with a hacksaw, 24T blade. A tube cutter can be used
but it thins the wall at the end of the tube after de-burring and the cutter can
introduce small fractures or cracks that are hard to see so be observant. A chop
saw works well but the heat can effect some metals temper.
Tubes should be de-burred on the cut ends with a de-burring tool both on the
inside and outside of the cut surface. De-bur on the inside because anything you
insert into the tube could be scratched, on the outside to prevent scratches on
brackets etc., a round and flat files will do fine. A de-burring tool works well.
De-bur holes that are drilled into the tube with a larger drill bit, file, or
de-bur tool removing just enough material to make it smooth.
Hole location on tubes can be difficult to align when drilling a “through” bolt
hole, one way to get alignment is to use a piece of graph paper cut to make a collar
or “ring”. Align the paper on the tube and tape the circle seam, slide the collar
off the tube and flatten in half, use a marker to dot the creases. When you slide
the paper ring back on the tube the marked creases will be exactly 180 degrees
opposite each other and inline by the edge of the paper or graph line. Slide the
paper collar back on the tube and mark the hole location and use a center punch
before drilling.
Center punch all drill positions before drilling. Tube and brackets can all be
drilled undersize (1/8 bit) and then have some chance at correction if a slight
problem exists, this makes the larger bit easier to drill also. On bracket or
plate brackets that are identical try to match drill using one to overlay the
others and use the 1/8” bit first. Pin the first drilled holes with a bolt, rivet,
or drill bit to keep everything in alignment.
Tubes are shaped with a tube bender when necessary. If you haven’t done this in
the past you may want to get some inexpensive conduit and try a few times to get the
hang of it. Place the bender and the piece your bending on top of a piece of
plywood so you don’t scratch up the work piece. You need the plywood and good foot
pressure to give good support to the work piece or it may buckle. A ¾” and 1”
conduit bender are required for this project, these are conduit sizes and do not
match inch OD sizes. A ¾” bender is used on 7/8” and ¾” tube; a 1” bender is used
on 1 1/8” and 1” tube. Place your foot on the bender (foot location) and keep good
down pressure applied as you make the bend. You do not need to make bends in steel
to their final shape, you can make partial bends repeatedly and slowly bring the
piece to its final shape. You can reverse the bender and make “minor” corrections
in the opposite direction but if you get too far out of shape it may be easier to
discard the piece and start again, note that repeated movement back and forth will
weaken the piece. Aluminum hardens as you bend it and if you wiggle it back and
forth trying to get the right shape it will weaken significantly, you can make
progressive bends in the same direction but a reverse bend should be very minor.
When making progressive bends put the tool in its original position with each
increase in bend radius. Other bending devises may work as well or better than the
conduit type so if you have access to better benders by all means experiment and use
them.
Hardware: All hardware needs to be “AN” quality aircraft hardware. In order to
keep from marking up the bolts and wearing the nylock nuts you can use generic
hardware during building, you must not keep any lower grade hardware during
final assy.
April 2011 Pg-11
The plans list bolt sizes by diameter and type (like drilled or un-drilled),
however length will not always be correct. You can expect some error in lengths
so it will be a good idea for you to double check what the plans are telling you
on bolt lengths. You can figure it by learning “AN” numbering system as described
in most aircraft hardware parts books. I suggest that you buy a bolt gauge.
Note the difference between bolt length and grip length. A locking nut should have
at least one thread showing past the end of the nut.
POP RIVETS: We recommend stainless steel rivets as the first choice. An example
is P/N SS42-SSBS, at .12 cents each (cheaper in qty), steel rivets are quite a bit
cheaper, monel are a better choice. No aluminum rivets are used in this plane except
as “temporary” fasteners except where noted. Rivets are either stainless steel,
regular steel, or a special monel rivet. The stainless steel rivets can be substituted
with a steel rivet but the steel rivet tends to corrode over time so if you are in a
high humidity area they are less desirable (you can paint or varnish steel rivets to
control corrosion). The stainless steel rivets are a pain in the neck if you have to
remove them but they are strong and don't corrode. Removal....of a rivet is done with
a drill bit 1/64” smaller than the rivet size, drill and remove the head with a chisel
or wobble the stem of the drill bit in the top of the rivet to break it off. If the
rivet spins when you are drilling it you need to rotate the drill angle and revolve
around the hole position (wobble) to remove the rivet. If the hole becomes two far
enlarged you would need to go to the next size rivet for a proper fit (exp..1/8 rivet
to a 5/32 rivet). Rivets are 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16” diameter, there is a “grip” length
associated with any rivet, look at the “total thickness” of the items that are being
riveted and be sure the rivet minimum grip length meets or exceeds the requirement.
A few solid rivets are used on the controls they are to be flattened or “mushroomed”
on the end. Aluminum fabric rivets can be used on droop wing tips.
* Each construction step is associated with a file numbering system that matches
construction with pictures, diagrams, parts list, and hardware list. You will notice
a two letter indicator on each of these files or portion of a file. (exp. AF (airframe),
MG (main gear), WG (wing) etc.) * Diagrams are done on graph paper, if you have
difficulty in finding some dimension look at a known dimension for that piece of the
drawing and count the lines (boxes). exp. 1 box = 1”, 1 box = ½”, 1 box = ¼” etc.
Help: The plans are intended to give sufficient information to build a PoorBoy
if you have some shop or mechanical experience. There may be builders in your area
or people with aircraft building knowledge, they are usually quite willing and helpful
if you ask. Check your area for Ultralight or general aviation clubs, many fixed base
operators have a repair shop and I have gotten a lot of help from their A & P mechanics.
The Poorboy builders have a forum http://groups.yahoo.com/group/poorboy/
Substitutions: Most builders have idea’s they want to try out, sometimes they have
better ways of doing things but please remember to check with others when making changes
for safety.
The description sequence of building can be altered, you can build any section first,
hang-cage (fuselage), tail, wings etc. The tail is one place to start that gives you
some building time without a lot of investment. I like to start the A-frame and hang
cage first.
END of Demo Manual. Please order Plans for further Info.